Coat styles for A\W+
I’ve started thinking about what my next tailoring project will be and I’m feeling inspired by two very different trends I’ve spotted this season.
The cocoon coat is a loose but structured shape that narrows at the hem. It has wide sleeves, often gathering at the cuff, drop shoulders or raglans and a funnel collar or no collar. The cocoon shape emerged in the early 1900s as a cape alternative and was popularised again by Balenciaga in the 50s. It is definitely making a come back; current interpretations feature rolled cuffs or structured hems. The 80s inspired, double-breasted version sharpens up the silhouette.
This is not an easy style to carry off, neither in the wearing nor the designing. But, a fun departure from previous seasons’ trends.
Another look I really like is the long, lean, tailored jacket. This style updates borrows the understated collar, straight lines and longer cut of the boyfriend jacket but gives it a feminine touch with narrow, defined shoulders.
I fear that the lack of waist accentuation makes this another style best suited to the non-curvy. But with the right detailing – like the slightly puffed shoulder on the Maison Scotch coat above – it could flatter most shapes.
start the discussion!