Coat styles for A\W

Suzie Blackman
Monday, 31 October 2011

I’ve started thinking about what my next tailoring project will be and I’m feeling inspired by two very different trends I’ve spotted this season.

The cocoon coat is a loose but structured shape that narrows at the hem. It has wide sleeves, often gathering at the cuff, drop shoulders or raglans and a funnel collar or no collar. The cocoon shape emerged in the early 1900s as a cape alternative and was popularised again by Balenciaga in the 50s. It is definitely making a come back; current interpretations feature rolled cuffs or structured hems. The 80s inspired, double-breasted version sharpens up the silhouette.

Unfitted styles

Clockwise from top left; Egg Coat by Maison Scotch, Loose Check Jacket by Marios for TopShop, Textured Sleeve Cocoon Coat by Vila, Dacry Ombré Coat by Tory Birch.

This is not an easy style to carry off, neither in the wearing nor the designing. But, a fun departure from previous seasons’ trends.

Another look I really like is the long, lean, tailored jacket. This style updates borrows the understated collar, straight lines and longer cut of the boyfriend jacket but gives it a feminine touch with narrow, defined shoulders.

Long, tailored styles

Left: Tailored Coat by Maison Scotch. Right: Long Line Wool Blazer by Selected.

I fear that the lack of waist accentuation makes this another style best suited to the non-curvy. But with the right detailing – like the slightly puffed shoulder on the Maison Scotch coat above – it could flatter most shapes.

The author

Suzie Blackman

The dyer, designer, photographer, creative technologist and maker-of-things behind It's a Stitch Up. She lives in East London in a home filled with colour, fluff and house plants.

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